• Commentary: Pin Lock Keg Pricing and Availability
• Check Your CO2 Regulator for Leaks!
• How to get a keg ready for first use? New Keg Cleaning and Prep
• Portable Draft Beer Serving Options!
• Pin Lock Keg Pricing and Availability
• The Most Difficult Spot to Check for CO2 Leaks
• Keg O-Ring Materials Selection! – EPDM, Silicone and Buna-N?
• Why Do I Have Bubbles in My Beer Line? Diagnosing and Fixing Kegerator Foam Problems
• Five Benefits of Using Corny Kegs As Fermenters
• Rebuilding & Reconditioning Homebrew Kegs!
• Food Safe Replacement Keg O-Rings in Bulk
• Hands on Review: Kegland DuoTight Fittings & EVABarrier Tubing!
• Why Won’t My Beer Carbonate? Fixing Draft Beer Carbonation Problems
• What Does a Flow Control Faucet Do?
• Upgrade Your Kegerator – 6 Improvements!
• Serve Homebrew on Any Kegerator & Convert Commercial Kegerator to Homebrew
• Tips and Gear for Growler Filling
• What’s the Difference Between Ball Lock Kegs and Pin Lock Kegs?
• Checking for Draft System CO2 Leaks – Using The Pressure Gauge Method
• Tip: Consider Oetiker Stepless Clamps for Kegerator Gas and Beer Lines
• Hands On Review: Inkbird ITC-308 Dual Stage Temperature Controller +WiFi Version
• Universal Poppets Tips and Tricks!
• Convert Your Mark II Keg & Carboy Washer to a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump!
• Step by Step: Finding and Fixing Keg CO2 Leaks
• Kegerator Temperature Probe Placement – To Immerse or Not To Immerse? – three tests to determine optimal pla…
• Kegerator Beer Line Temperatures & Reducing Foam with a Recirculating Fan
• Kegging CO2 Use Estimations and Calculations
• Balancing Your Kegerator Draft System
• Building a Simple Ball Lock Draft Line Flushing Setup
• Build a Recirculating Draft Line Cleaning Pump
• Home Brew Keg Roundup – New & Used, 5 and 2.5 Gallon & More!
• Damp Kegerator? Fix Kegerator Condensation
• Homebrew Temp Controller Roundup! – Kegerator and Fermentation – concepts, applications and models
• Bulk Keg Orings and Keg Parts Reference

From the product description, check product page for current description, price and availability:

Mini Design – Ideal Flow Rate for Small Systems
Most conventional beer faucets are designed with 3/8″ diameter spouts so you can pour a pint in just over 10 seconds. This type of flow rate is great for high turnover bars and commercial venues but isn’t necessary or even desirable for all applications. For compact portable systems and home draft systems, a slower flow rate is easier to control and further reduces foaming issues due to the low liquid volume stored in the body of the faucet.

The NukaTap Mini is also more ideal for pouring smaller doses. For example, cocktails where 5-8 oz of liquid is dispensed is difficult to control with a high flow rate tap. For portable systems, the NukaTap Mini with the Flow Control Ball Lock QD & Duotight Adapter assembly is small enough to literally put in your pocket, making it ideal for mini keg setups that you want to be portable or that you want to easily fit inside a domestic fridge where space is tight.

Forward Sealing
Forward sealing faucets are absolutely the way to go when it comes to beer taps. Old legacy taps still exist in the industry that are simply poorly designed. The issue with rear sealing faucets is that beer dries up on the internal piston. Aside from being unsanitary, as more and more beer dries up in these components the faucet can almost glue completely shut causing damaged seals or broken handles (this is particularly the case if it’s left for some time to dry out with beer inside). These older legacy designs still exist probably due to poor education. The forward sealing designs do not have this problem and the tap drains out completely with no beer drying up on the mechanical moving parts in the same way. This makes the tap more sanitary and reduces maintenance. In many instances the price is similar so there is no reason to use a poorly designed rear sealing faucet. All NukaTap faucets are forward sealing.

Laminar Flow
Just like the NukaTap SS and NukaTap FC, the NukaTap Mini has been designed with laminar flow in mind. Laminar flow is critical for a beer tap as it means you will pour the beer with minimal foaming and a substantial reduction in wastage. Think about how many times a beer faucet opens and closes in its lifetime. 1,000 or maybe 10,000 times? Laminar flow saves wasted beer in excessive foam and the better laminar flow easily pays for itself in a reduction in lost beer. To use poorer designed faucets is essentially flushing money down the sink. Extensive modeling has been done on the NukaTap design to improve laminar flow.

Integrated Seals That Are Indestructible and More Sanitary
Unlike other designs, the NukaTap Mini body is made from Polyketone (POK) making it strong, robust, and able to be autoclaved. The seals are also over-molded from Santoprene® making them hard wearing so they will literally last for the lifetime of the tap without the need for replacement. Santoprene® and POK both have excellent resistance to chemicals such as caustic soda, peroxide, phosphoric acid, lactic acid, citric acid, acetic acid, and all common chemicals sold and used in the beverage industry. The seals internally are over-molded meaning no fissures or cracks exist for bacteria, crud, or yeast to hide.

Superior First Pour Foam Due to Low Thermal Mass and Conductivity
First pour foam is an issue caused by a warm tap body. For most faucets to pour well it’s important to dispense enough beer to cool the tap body down to reach maximum performance. In addition to this the conductivity of the tab body also makes this worse so insulative materials simply work better than conductive materials. The NukaTap mini not only has very low thermal mass but is also highly insulative being made mostly from Santoprene® and POK. The combination of these two factors in conjunction with superior laminar flow makes for the lowest “first pour foam” effect out of any tap ever produced.

Long Shank Alternative
Most conventional beer faucets require a large 3/4″ hole to be drilled through the side of your refrigerator, keezer, or cold box wall. Traditional long shanks also generally have a large volume of liquid that sits inside the wall unrefrigerated which is not ideal. New long shank alternatives developed for the NukaTap Mini are designed to suit any wall thickness and greatly reduces the stagnant beer sitting in the shank itself. For walls up to 2.7″ thick, these wall mount shank kits include three screws, however if the wall is thicker, you can also use 6 small wood screws or something similar and attach three screws from the front and 3 from the back allowing you to go into any wall type.

Another advantage of this new design is the tap will never accidentally rotate. Typically, other long shank beer taps rely on the hex nut on the shank to be done up tight enough to prevent rotation but if the wall compresses (often the case with foam walls) the tap is allowed to rotate. This new design has three fixing points making it impossible for the tap to rotate accidentally as the interlocking teeth behind the collet allow you to set the angle and then do up the collet to fix the tap permanently in that position.

NukaTap Mini Accessories (Sold Separately):

• Duotight Flow Control Ball Lock QD (DUO159)
• Mini Self Closing Spring (D1598A)
• Duotight Adapter – 8mm (D1598B)
• Long Shank Alternative for Wall Mounting – Duotight 8mm (D1598C)
• Long Shank Alternative for Wall Mounting – Duotight 6.35mm (D1598D)